Adventures in the Argolis

After my "first day in Athens" I was all ready to get out of the city and explore the Argolis. At 9.00 am I met my guide and driver, Spyros, in the lobby of the hotel. He would prove to be a very good source of information and a wonderful conversation partner. The goals for this day were the Corinth Canal, the citadel of Mycenae, the harbour town of Nafplion and ancient Epidaurus; important historical sites on the Peloponnese peninsula. My plan: to fine-tune a day excursion from Athens to the Argolis for my ‘Greece Experience’ group tour (May 2019).

On the way to Mycenae, Spyros stopped at the Corinth Canal for a photo shoot and a coffee break. At that very moment the sun came out on a day which - according to the weather forecast - would be rather wet, so we kept our fingers crossed that this pattern would continue during the day. The Corinth Canal separates the Peloponnese from the Greek mainland. Periander already proposed to dig a canal some 2700 years ago, but actual building work didn't start until 1881. The canal was finally completed in 1893, but land slides prevented it from being used as much as they had hoped.

In Mycenae I met my private guide, Patty, who was very good and very patient. Of course, not only did I want to hear all the stories, I also needed to ask certain questions, shoot movies and take photos. We started at the mysterious tomb of Agamemnon, also known as the Treasury of Atreus. It was the German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann who, after discovering the site in 1876, named this tomb after the two famous kings of Mycenae. King Agamemnon, the son of Atreus, is best known for his involvement in the Trojan War. Originally constructed around 1250 BCE, this megalithic beehive shaped tholos tomb is one of the most impressive monuments surviving from the era of the Mycenaeans (1600 – 1100 BCE). During most of this period, Mycenae was the capitol of Greece, although in those days we cannot speak of one country; it was a pact between city states, with the king of Mycenae being their High King.

The lintel stone above the doorway weighs 120 tons and above it is a so called relieving triangle to keep the weight off the lintel, preventing it from breaking.

We continued our visit and started the walk up to the citadel of Mycenae. To my surprise, most groups - if not all - only visit the main citadel’s most famous spots: the grave circle A and the Lion’s Gate, while the entire town behind it is skipped due to lack of time. I decided that, for my group tour, I would leave the hotel half an hour earlier to have more time to visit the museum and the sites with our guide, and have another 30 minutes to explore the town itself, the palace where Agamemnon lived, the houses of the artisans, the cisterns and the back door, through which Patty and I left the citadel. Patty did advise me to lead this walk through the rest of the town, so that no one would get lost, and that we would all be back at the bus on time to go to Nafplion.

Below are some of the photos I took at Mycenae, including several from inside the museum, where many finds from Grave circle A are exhibited.

The golden crown.

The so called "Mask of Agamemnon", found by the German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann.

The Lion's Gate.

The Cyclopean Walls.

The underground cistern.

Leaving through the ancient 'back door'.

After a very enjoyable visit to Mycenae, Spyros and I hit the road to Nafplion, a lovely Venetian harbour town with a massive Venetian Fort dominating the coastline. This is where Spyros and I had lunch. We also walked around a bit and agreed that it would be the perfect place for people to have some time off and have lunch, and that we’d have to depart for Epidaurus at 14.00 hours. Nafplion has many restaurants, so everyone can choose; having lunch on the water front, or in a tavern in one of the atmospheric streets just off the Venetian square. Nafplion was the first capitol of modern Greece, but it has an amazing history. It was the harbour of Argos, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and plays a major role in the story of Jason and the Argonauts. Known in ancient Egypt by the name of Nuplija, this port was very likely colonized by Egyptians; even Pausanias assumed it back in the 2nd century CE. After having been inhabited in pre-classical and classical times, it became Byzantine, Frankish (French), Venetian and Ottoman (Turkish). During the Greek War of Independence, Nafplio became a major Ottoman stronghold. In short, what a lovely place to have lunch. Perfect!

In the distance, the fortified island called Bourtzi from the era of the Ottoman rule.

The mighty stronghold 'Palamidi', built by the Venetians, dominates the town of Nafplion.

Just before lunch, Spyros and I visited a Greek Orthodox church, very interesting! Below I will share some of the photos I took inside.

Jesus.

John the Baptist.

Archangel Michael.

It was in a small tavern here in Nafplion that Spyros (photo on the right) - knowing I have a gluten-allergy - asked me to try some freshly baked sour bread offered on the table, just to see if I’d have a reaction. I tried it and we continued our conversation. After half an hour, Spyros asked me if I had a reaction to the bread. Normally I’d have felt it by now, but no, nothing. I was smiling a little now, because real bread is wonderful to eat when you haven’t had it for years! Spyros explained that it has been prepared in a different way than the mass-produced bread, also using sour-dough. We enjoyed our meal and wanted to continue our journey when the tavern owner offered us the dessert of the house, including two business cards (all in Greek, no website), of course hoping we would spread the word. So, the only thing I can do is scan the business card and copy it here in my blog post. I must say, it was a very good restaurant, very well priced and I would recommend it wholeheartedly.

After lunch we drove directly to Epidaurus, where Patty would take me not only to the theatre, but also to the Sanctuary of Asclepius. Again, groups visit the theatre, clap their hands to hear the sound effects, and leave. The Sanctuary of Asclepius is, however, a very important site. In ancient Greece, this was the equivalent of a very big Spa centre, complete with accommodation, temples, market places, a gymnasium, baths, shops, a stadium and a hospital. The theatre was designed by Polykleitos the Younger in the 4th century BC, enlarged in Roman times and seats up to 14.000 people. It is still in use today.

The theatre , though very important, is still only a part of the whole. The main player is the Asclepeion, the most celebrated healing center of the Classical world. The ancient Theraputae (in Greece, the Essenes were known by that name) were specialized in medicine and healing, not just with medication, but also through sound (intonations and music) and artificial sleep, giving very sick bodies a chance to heal themselves. The patient would hardly experience pain because he’s mostly asleep, and through rest, many illnesses and inflammations could be healed. The artificial sleep was caused by giving the patient a very mild opiate, either mixed with healing herbs or source water. When you join us on the ‘Greece Experience’ group tour, you will hear more about this important site, the origins of the Rod of Asclepius (often confused with the staff of Hermes, the Caduceus), and the knowledge of snake energy (the snake is an important symbol of medicine).

Below I am sharing some of the photos I took at the Asclepius Sanctuary at Epidaurus. If you want to hear the stories about the labyrinth underneath the tholos temple, then join me on 'The Greece Experience' group tour next year in May. More info: download the PDF with the itinerary, details and pricing.

As part of one of the temples' exterior, the sunlight would have illuminated this marble capital beautifully, and for those with the eyes to see, a fleur-de-lis can be seen, carefully positioned to symbolize the light in the world.

Footprints of a statue...

The Tholos is being partially renovated. There is, however, a secret to this particular Tholos, which is still unsolved by archaeologists and historians. Below you see an aerial photograph of the underground space, referred to as the labyrinth.

The dormitory, where the very ill were kept in an artificial sleep.

The stadium.

Moved by the stories and aware of where I was on this very moment, a long but amazing day came to an end and the weather had kept its morning promise. I had discovered what I was looking for and my plan for the tour was coming together very well indeed.

While listening to rebetiko style Greek music (listed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List), and enjoying the sunset colours and light on the breathtaking landscape, Spyros and I traveled back to Athens, where I enjoyed a late night dinner and an early night. The following day my journey would take me to the sacred sites of Delphi. After having felt the pull to go to Delphi only a few months before, it was unbelievable that I was actually about to go there for real! I felt extremely grateful.

Next week I will share my adventure at the Pan cave in the Parnassos mountains above Delphi. See you next week on Friday! xox