The Archaeological Site of Delphi
I decided to go for a stroll and sniff up the mountain air before the buses arrived from Athens, so I followed the road, aiming to visit the Castalian Spring. After all, my next appointment wouldn't be until 11.00 am at the entrance of the museum. As I walked passed the Roman Gymnasium, the sun tried to pierce holes through the thin clouds that covered the sky. How strange; being all by myself but not feeling lonely at all.
I stopped and cuddled a few adorable kittens; I can't help myself; I love animals dearly and have 2 cats of my own. I will bring some cat treats next time, I promised them, for they refused my cookie crumbles and gave me 'the look'; a particular facial expression I can always recognize. I crossed the street and arrived at the Castalian Spring.
The water is delicious, so pure!
On my stroll to the museum I saw this stunning old olive tree; it must be at least 2000 years old, perhaps even older. On the other side of the street I spotted an opportunity to take a nice close up of the Apollo Temple.
I took out my phone to check the time (my watch broke on the first day already). If I wanted to have a coffee break before the tour then I should get going. I was looking forward to meeting Georgia, my guide; to see the archaeological site and ask the questions I had in mind; to discover connections and discuss them on the spot. I think I said the word 'wow' at least 50 times on this day. A kitten, probably about 4 months old that looked exactly like my little Noa, almost made me forget the time. I quickly passed the gorgeous sarcophagi when I saw Georgia arriving. I immediately liked her and I am keeping my fingers crossed that she will also be able to be the guide for my group in May 2019 ('The Greece Experience' group tour info page: https://greeceexperiencetours.blogspot.com/2018/09/the-greece-experience-2nd-half-of-may.html).
The Museum of Delphi
Below you can see a few of the photos I took during my visit to the museum of Delphi. It is a fantastic start of the tour, because it gives you an idea of what it looked like in the Golden Age of Delphi. Touching history...
White Attic cup depicting Apollo making a libation (480 BCE)
The Twins of Argos
A bronze griffin from the 7th century BCE
The Chryselephantine Apollo
The world famous Charioteer of Delphi
Interesting image, almost Egyptian... But it does not surprise, as Egypt and Greece were connected by trade and - sometimes - warfare already many centuries BCE.
Amazing detail and craftsmanship on this statue of Antinous, favourite of the Roman emperor Hadrian (2nd century BCE)
Hymn to Apollo engraved to the south wall of the Athenian treasury. I have found a CD with the hymn and other ancient Greek songs, and will play this CD in the bus. :)
The Omphalos of Delphi; covered not with bees, but then what? The story behind it will be told on the tour. ;-)
The Archaeological Site of Delphi
The walk itself along the Sacred Road is very comfortable. It's a good path, mostly very wide, repaired here and there where it had worn and become too slippery, and walking it is like a journey through time. Although many buildings were destroyed (earthquakes and the fact that locals had built an entire village on top of the ruins) you still get a good idea of what it must have looked like in the Golden Age. Below I will share a collection of my photos.
The Roman Forum. This is the most recent antique addition together with the Roman stadium at the top of the site.
Looking towards the treasure house of the Athenians.
Those who have visited Cathar Country and the so called 'Throne of Isis' (originally named the Devil's Armchair because it is a pagan site), may have heard the story of the wise women of the woods who, millennia ago, would sit in the rock 'chair' (later carved into a more comfortable seat) to prophesize. In Delphi there is also such a rock, called the 'Sybil's Rock', situated just off the treasure house of the Athenians. It looks more like a daybed than a throne, but I discussed the topic with my guide and we agreed that this may have once been a widespread cult in ancient Europe. Certain rocks on particular sites may have enhanced the ability for people to calm down the left brain in order to enhance intuition and allow foresight. It may even be scientifically explainable, for everything is vibration; thoughts are vibrations, as are earth energies on fault lines. Only later, when the Apollo worship replaced the Earth Mother Gaia (Gé) worship in Delphi, the site of the Oracle changed from the rock to the crack in the earth further up the slope (this is the site of the Apollo temple) where the fumes came out, and the name of the prophetess changed from Sybil to 'Pythia'. If you would like to discover ancient Greece, its myths, mysteries, history, culture and philosophy, then join me on a very specially designed tour in May 2019. More info: https://greeceexperiencetours.blogspot.com/2018/09/the-greece-experience-2nd-half-of-may.html
Above the ancient theater is the best spot to take the most perfect picture of the Apollo Temple. This temple is a very special archaeological monument. Many big decisions were made because of the prophecies by the Pythia priestess and the priests who translated her sounds, including colonizing the Mediterranean as far as Gibraltar to enhance trade and create Leagues to keep the peace, even to start Democracy itself. To go to Delphi is to go to the cradle of Europe. Here was the Oracle of Gaia (9th century BCE) and from the 7th century BCE onwards, the Oracle of Apollo.
To make sure that the basis of the temple wouldn't crumble during an earthquake, a new wall was constructed with stones, cut in such a manner that they locked into each other. This way the wall became much stronger and more sturdy.
This is the Roman Stadium, built on top of the Greek Stadium.
Homer sang of Helena, Agamemnon, Achilles, Paris and the Trojan horse in the Iliad, and originally, the whole story was considered to be nothing but a legend, until the site of ancient Troy was discovered by Heinrich Schliemann, who also discovered the site of ancient Mycenae, Agamemnon's city. The Trojan War is not just a story; it's history, caught in a song.
My tour had finished and I found myself walking slowly to the exit, taking in the atmosphere of this sacred place and ignoring my rumbling belly. It was already 14.30 hours when I finally arrived at Ydra, the balcony restaurant with the amazing view at the start of the village. I felt as if I had achieved something big, but couldn't put my finger on it. I felt gratitude and praised the chef for the gyros chicken and salad, which I enjoyed so very much.
After lunch I walked to a souvenir shop which sold very beautiful ceramics (www.amphora-ceramics.com), not the kitsch you see in some other shops. I bought a book on Delphi and a miniature omphalos as a souvenir.
Synchronicity
Sometimes, when you follow your heart and go with the flow, amazing things happen. I needed to create a new itinerary for my May tour next year, one that was adapted to my latest discoveries and experiences, so I found myself a temporary office in the corner of a restaurant at the far end of the village. It was after lunchtime and I ordered a tea with a home made dessert, constantly thinking about the tour and that this restaurant would actually be a fab place for my group to have an organized lunch on a busy day. I asked the owner for a business card to take home with me. It was all in Greek and I was surprised I could actually read it. My Greek lessons have already paid off!
At the same time I was texting Denise, the manager of the Greek incoming tour agency we work with. She had arranged for me to inspect 3 hotels on the following day. However, one of them was in Arachova, and not having a car would mean having to take a taxi and thus adding to the cost of the trip, which was already more than we could afford to begin with. But before I could get worried about it, a solution would present itself.
I was just about to attack my yummy dessert when George (also a tour organizer & driver) texted me if I had some time that day to meet up. Because I could read the business card of the restaurant I could actually tell him where I was, and so, at 17.00 hours, he walked into 'my office'. I immediately liked him. He works differently from the incoming tour agent in Athens (e.g. he is specialized in individual tours and small groups tours with special wishes - mainly high end tours) and it's good to know all the possibilities for my clients. The Greek tourism world is a jungle and you need to know who you are working with, who you can trust. George invited me to come along to a wine tasting that evening in Arachova and I could not help thinking about the hotel in Arachova. I wondered if Denise could change the appointment with the hotel to tonight? At the same time I was so exhausted and I hesitated for a moment, but George's enthusiasm, the chance to talk some more, and the opportunity to visit this hotel (which was interesting for George, too), persuaded me to say yes.
Arachova
At 18.00 hours I met George, his clients and their official tour guide, Helen (a graduate of the history and archaeology dept. of Athens University) at their hotel in Delphi. After a fast and comfortable ride we arrived in the lovely town center of Arachova, where Helen and George's clients left the car to go shopping.
George and I went to inspect the hotel. The sunset was breathtakingly beautiful and George and I couldn't stop taking photos.
I felt blessed meeting the right people at the right time and couldn't believe the synchronicity of the moment. Here I was at the parking of the hotel, talking to Denise on the phone, who was at the same time talking to the hotel manager on her landline to arrange the hotel inspection. The moment we ended the call, George and I were just entering the hotel lobby and immediately the hotel manager came over to introduce himself and to welcome us, happy to show us both around his hotel.
I was pinching myself; I knew this hotel! This is where I stayed in 1992! I totally loved it back then and it is still beautiful, even more beautiful! I was keeping my fingers crossed that it wouldn't be more expensive than I could afford for my group tour.
Thankfully, it was just within my budget and it is now officially in the package. :) ♥
The wine tasting adventure
At 20.00 hours we picked up George's clients and Helen, and made our way to the Isidora Gallery Bar, where we were charmed by the people (the bar owner is also called George), the atmosphere and the way they made us feel so very welcome. When the first bottle opened, we started talking about the wines in Greece and France and we enjoyed the little snacks that accompanied the wines. I only drank very little, nipping just to get the taste, but enough to know that these were not just local wines; these were top wines from the best vineyards in Greece. Yum! :)
I also loved talking to Helen. I hope our paths will cross again. :)
And so, a wonderful day ended, and I would like to thank George 1 and 2 again for their hospitality, friendship and generosity, Denise for being so flexible and fabulous and the two guides Helen and Georgia for being absolutely sweet, knowledgeable and wise. ♥ xox
Yes, this was a good day. :) See you next week for my final day in Delphi. :) xox
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